Bhaktapur, Nepal

Bhaktapur Durbar Square

Can you girls get ready in an hour? was dad's request. If only women could get ready in time or spend less time in make up & stuff, the world would have been less chaotic; just so you know what happened.

Bhaktapur was where we heading to. I was pretty impressed with six lane road to Bhaktapur with railings dividing the road which restricted people from crossing haphazardly. It was a nice ride, no traffic. Even saw signs on which lanes to use and when.

The guards

Bhaktapur Durbar Square", the city is also known as a museum of medieval art. It is 15km far from Kathmandu and 1400m above sea level. The place highlights the ancient arts of Nepal. Bhaktapur is definitely a place to see architectural side of ancient Nepal. It's architectural show pieces. Sculpture, woodcarving, pagoda temples, wood carvings as in lintels, tympanums, gateways and windows are fascinating. Pottery is another thing to explore. The Major attractions of Bhaktapur Darbar Square are 55 Window Palace ( magnificent monument built in 15th century AD), Golden Gate (the main entrance to the palace), Lion's Gate (gate with two beautiful stone statues ), Mini Pashupati Temple (people call it a royal dream temple), Vatsala Temple (known for its dog-barking bell), Nyatapola Temple (the highest pagoda of Nepal ever built), Bhairav Nath Temple ( Bhairav, the God of terror and death).

Traditional

As many temples as the houses.

One of many squares

We had to pay for this.

It's a fabulous place to get away from the noise and pollution of central Kathmandu. The place is full of amazing heritage and history.There are few museums as well. It is a beautiful city. Kathmandu must have been the same hundreds of years ago. I enjoyed looking at the way of life through narrow streets of  Bhaktapur. Shopping in Bhaktapur is cheaper for souvenirs. We bought some. I really liked the atmosphere around. The place is also famous for Ju-Ju Dhau (yoghurt). We almost forgot about it, we had to go back in.

I would consider this town a must see.

From the shop we bought some souvenirs 

Those dried fish

Rafting- Monsoon flows

Rafting- Monsoon flows, Trishuli River, Nepal

Getting ready

Do's and Don'ts

Monsoon flows and it flows brown. It wasnt a white rafting but brown. 

Monsoon rafting is considered to be challenging for river could swell like an ocean with powerful rapids and whirlpools. This means, our monsoon rafting was more than just a floating. 

River Trisuli is one of the most popular Nepali rivers for rafting and that's where we headed to early morning on Saturday. We (8 in a group) were to arrive by 10 just so as to be ahead with and not caught up in tide. One of our 4WDs punctured on the way and we were late. On our arrival, we put our life jackets and helmets on. We had some instructions on safety measures and emergency procedures from both, instructor and a rescue guard. Listening to them brief on Do's and Don'ts were a bit hard to take in. We feared on being hurled out the boat. It started to drizzle. The river seemed to be running high offs.

Away we go

Sailing away

The total program was about two and half including lunch in the river bank. We skipped lunch just so to catch up with other groups. We had it later, after we finished off. Ripples, splashes and bumps were more than interesting at times considering the water was ice cold. There were gentler stretches too which were easy to raft on. Rapids were more interesting with the names they were associated with, 'nose', 'monkey', 'pinball' etc. In between, we had a swimming session, we were taken to a river running alongside. It was clean and the water was warm. The instructor had us play some games, all of them using paddles. I guess those were 'rafting' games.

Stand by

At the mean time, dad and his friend were having their own time. The convenience of river running alongside the main highway, offered an opportunity for them to drive the same speed as we were on.

Well, that's called keeping an eye on, very much full on.

As soon as we were off the boat, we heard the news of five people gone missing. This made it to headline next morning, “Four women and a man went missing". A couple of days of rescue team searching and they could only find a body, out of five.  What a tragedy!

Photo Courtesy- Daddy

Paraglide

Bindabasini Temple

We were back to Pokhara. Paragliding was next on to-do list. Before we headed to Sarangkot (1425m) where the take off is done, we had a whole morning to spare. Hail a taxi! No, you cannot. You have to/ must take the one on queue whether or not you like it and they do not run on a meter. We were annoyed really. We passed by old Pokhara, went for thakali lunch (recommended by uncle) and spent some time in Bindabasini temple where we were picked up for paragliding. The drive to the top of the hill was dangerous, not because of the road but the speed the jeep was rolling on. I should  have filmed a video on.

Taking off

Some instructions on Dos and Don't and we were ready to fly. Well, I wasn't. The experience of leaving the ground was wonderful although I was fearing a brief heart attack, being a phobic. We took off in jiffy. The bird eye view of few lake and the whole Pokhara valley was awesome. As we slowly flew towards Fewa lake, the instructor offered acrobatic flying. I guess the acrobatics were to be amazing. It was like a spinning bug in a drain. Hard driving pressure and wind up against the face and chest along with the gravity made me sick in just a matter of seconds. I asked him to stop. I kept my eyes closed. 

Sliding off

Son taking off

We didn't hover around much but on the same area in soft and open loops. We headed down over the lake and coasted toward the landing area. Half a dozen people came to help us land and collect the paraglide. The instructor helped me to unclip. He asked me how the flying experience was, he was filming. I couldnt speak up, for I was shaking all over. It took me a while to get over it. I waited for Sona to land and Rajya aunty & Basu uncle to arrive. My cousin had a story to tell. They landed on field nearby due to bad weather condition. I guess it was the wind. She had bruises all over her body. It was quite a bit of experience for both of us.

Brief jeep ride back to town and we had no time to stay and collect our videos/photos but to run again, to come back to Kathmandu this time.

Pokhara, Kaski District, Gandaki Zone

Ghandruk, Kaski

Ghandruk, Kaski District, Gandaki Zone

It was an amazing race. No sooner we landed, we hailed a taxi; we were to catch a van to Ghandruk. (Behind the stage was one of my uncles organizing the trip. ) After 2 hours of drive, it was time to walk. 1.5 hrs of trek but we took over 2 and half because of the sun and frequent coming and goings of mule/donkey trains (Yeah, blame the donkeys). 

Donkey Train

The village sits at the top of the steep trail. The trek ascended gradually for most part until we reached welcome gate of Ghandruk. Then, the steep trail, it was almost 90 degree. We were famished. We didnt know where to go. An elderly woman welcomed us and made us Daal, bhat, sukuti for lunch. I never had 'Sukuti' (dried meat) that tough and hard to chew, yummy though. It was 3 in the afternoon and It started to pour. We decided to stay. 

A typical house in Ghandruk.

This beautiful Gurung village of rows of neat slate-roofed houses on top of the hill is a popular place of Annapurna range which offers various accommodation possibilities and easy trails. 

Stone trail

Late in the afternoon, we took a troll. Clouds started to move after the rain. It revealed us the elevation of the valley and snapshots of beautiful mountains, the massive peaks of Annapurna South (7219m) and its neighbour Hiunchuili (6441m) including Machhapuchhre (6993m) towering over the valley. Viewing mountains in Monsoon was quite a experience. We walked through a swirling vortex of fog so thick that we couldn't see the ground. It was amazing. It didn't last long though. The white misty fog was moving apart and moving quick. 

Home Stay

Dal Bhat

Home Stay 

We spent a good couple of hours at night talking to this old couple (owner).The home stay was cozy and comfortable; we were well looked after.The sunrise view in the morning from the verandah was spectacular. It was five in the morning. I saw a grand show of mountains. It was gorgeous. It must be some of the most spectaculars in Nepal. I went back to sleep hoping to see more later. When I woke up allergic (caught up earlier in the verandah), it was all covered up.

A bit of farewell again with blessings and flowers and we headed back.

Narro trails

Jomsom - Another night

Jomsom Airport

We decided to stay one more night in Jomsom and fly next morning. We were crossing our fingers, although I had no hope. Jomsom airport is known as one of the world's most dangerous airfields and is a particular favourite of flight simulator fans. 

Fresh smell of Dashain Dhoop (incense) steaming along with our early morning tea and we were ready to head our way. I think that's Thakali's way of bidding a farewell. By six, we were already at the airport, which was just a couple of minutes walk. The weather was clear. 

Once we got the news of flght's been taken off from Pokhara, 

we queued up for a check in. That was the first flight in a week's time; it probably was more. It was in less than 5 minutes that the flight took off. Seven each in two airplanes and we took off almost the same time with a couple of minutes difference. The moment it took off until we landed, it was amazing. Everybody clunk to the side windows for the views were spectacular, flying along and over the mountains. Mesmerising!

MuktiNath Mustang

MuktiNath, Mustang district, Dhaulagiri zone

Muktinath temple is a popular pilgrimage for Nepalese. It is at the foot of the Thorong La mountain pass (part of the Himalayas) at an altitude of 3,710 meters and Jomsom serves as a gateway.

Almost 2 hours of picturesque drive from Kagbeni and we were at the bottom, from where we had to walk uphill for about 20 minutes or so. There were moterbike services for all those who couldn't walk.

Welcoming-The Entrance

I was expecting this place to be snow-white as I have seen in the photos. To my disappointment, there wasnt much of a snow on the mountains; I didnt realise it's summer, but it was foggy. 

Flag Mountain

Inside the main temple and I was quite surprised to see a monk priest although I was carrying khata (silk scarf) myself. To my knowledge, Muktinath is a HIndu temple but came to know it's pilgrimage site for both Buddhists and Hindus. It is a great example of a sacred place shared in harmony by two religions. 

Bells unwanted

Salvation

Behind the temple, there were 108 Dhara (waterspouts) called “Muktidhara”. Those who visit the temple take a shower in each of these spouts  in a belief that it brings them salvation (Mukti-Salvation, Nath-God). We did too. I'm not sure if running (we did run) under those ice cold water spouts would bring salvation but we had fun. 

My Castle

We went around for about an hour, followed a security from the temple. 'Jwalamai' temple was amazing; there were two flames continuously burning, fed by natural gas. Later we had mid-day breakfast and we headed our way back to Jomson. Perhaps the driver was in a hurry, we needed a seatbelt tight & across all over the body. We still enjoyed the views all the way. Breathtaking! 
Some more photos-

Prayer Bells

Gompa

'Saligrams' is considered the symbol of Lord Vishnu

Making tea

Red & white plant

White House

Kagbeni (Upper) Mustang

Kagbeni (Upper) Mustang District, Dhawalagiri Zone

Green and brown

We merged with a group of 5 officials staying in the same hotel for tomorrow's  mystical tour. Kagbeni is a village in Upper Mustang, Nepal, located in the valley of the Kali Gandaki River. It lies on the border to Upper Mustang. Kagbeni is just a few hours walk north of Jomsom. It took us about half an hour or so on a jeep. 

Jeep ride to clouds

The place was so magical and intriguing. If you have watched the movie & Kagbeni by Bhusan Dahal, you would know. The movie is made on 1902 horror short story ‘The Monkey’s Paw’ by W. W. Jacob which I read it from my aunty's book when I was little, the same aunty I am travelling with. 

Happy to be suspended (Rajya aunty & Sona) 

The houses in general were traditional flat mud roof, with wood piled up on top of the roof for cooking/heating. On our way, I didn't pay much attention to elderly talk inside although interesting. I was so very mesmerized with the views. We saw caves cut into the mountainsides and cliffs. Also, Chortens, pagoda-style structures which were built to memorialize the teachings of Buddha. We saw a herd of sheep crossing over a very long suspension bridge. It was out the world, so beautiful. Where else on earth you get to see things like this?

Stoned

Terrain

Brown and clouds

We share

Directions- If you think you are lost.

What's in store for you?

Narrow

Jomsom Nepal

Alley with the view

We were up early to catch a bus to Jomson. We were excited, until we hit bumpy, dangerous road. OMG! I didnt expect the road to be so narrow and bumpy the same time. I was proud until this moment, on my last visit (six years ago) I drove my own (Dad didnt take his turn), all the way from Sauraha, Chitwan to Kathmandu which was about 4-5hrs drive but I wouldnt have dared this one, not at all. A slight mistake/miss and you'd be nowhere. You would be dead. It was scary to watch the driver talking on the phone, the same time he's driving. 

Flags 

With the strict rules of not picking/eating anything on the way but just water, we carried all the necessities including 'Jivan Jal'. I was already on it. The cost of a water bottle escalated from Rs20-30-40-50 as we moved on. Six hours bus travel was horrific, horror movie wouldnt have scared me as much. We had to change at Ghasa for four more hours. This was a spilt point where trees got smaller and to a minimum, houses looked smaller and stone built and the mountains turned into brown. 

Jomsom is a town located at an altitude of 2800m in Mustang District, Nepal. It extends over both the banks of the Kali Gandaki River. 

Blue, white, red, green, yellow

Tiara

We made it. We couldnt wait to check in. View from our room was spectacular. We were next to the airport and on the lap of Mt Dhaulagiri (8,167m). Almost 4 in the afternoon and we had our very first meal of the day. We had 'Thakali' momo. Thakalis are traditional traders and many residents seemed to have converted their charming and clean homes into hotels/lodges in the village. Thakalis are well known for hospitality, food and successful inn-keepers in Nepal. 

Houses above houses

Stack of Pallets

Later in the evening, we took a stroll. Not as cold as we expected it to be but windy. The village was filled with prayer wheels, chortens and a Buddhist monastery, very Tibetan influenced. The culture along was a mixture of Hindu and Buddhism.

We watched the sun go down from Eco museum of Jomson. The view from the hill was enchanting. The entire panorama was just as awesome, with the surrounds of Mt Nilgiri (7,061 m) and Dhaulagiri (8,167m). It was a different world. Here are some more pictures.

Three is not even 

Stairway to heaven

Jomsom, Mustang District, Dhawalagiri Zone