Chobar

It is not always you get to see the valley with its surrounds. Most of the times it is clouds and mists that obscure the view of the mountains. I was pretty amazed for it was more than just a rare glimpse  of the snowy mountains. Yeap, Chobar is the place. Almost time for the sun to set and the view was spectacular. While I was busy taking a couple of panoramic photos, mom and dad went inside a nearby local cafe, which also had the view. The cafe had some amazing collection of old photos of Kathmandu which could be dated way back to 1901 AD. Adinath Lokeshwar Temple was just a couple of minutes walk up hill. The first thing I noticed was these metal plates and cups and vessels nailed onto the walls of the temple and the surrounds/courtyard. The myth is newlyweds do such to ensure a happy married life. I didn't have my camera with me again but here's more:

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Kakani ko Trout

My idea was to wait patiently an entire day for some fish to drive into my net but that wasnt a trick. The trick was to chase them into one corner of the pool and Voila! He, the keeper didnt take more than few seconds to grab a kilo of them. Glad there were not many watching besides mom and dad. Here's more on what we did - 

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Godawari/Naagdaha & Temples

Saturday again, I didnt have much plan but moms did. Our first pit stop, Santaneshwor Mahadev not that we planned for but Dad took the turn. Santaneshwor Mahadev is one of the famous Hindu temples located at the south-east of Kathmandu Valley. This Shiva temple is located in Jharuwarasi, Lalitpur and is about 6 km away from the valley. The name Shantaneshwor, meaning boon for having a baby. Thus the myth is people without children come to please the Lord. Mom had a trouble walking up the stairs which  should be around 300-400 stairs in total. From the top, we could see the concrete jungle of entire valley. Well, it went 360 degrees around.

Next, was Naag daha of Dhapakhel which was about 10-15 mins drive away. With few boats on the run it looked like Fewa lake of Pokhara. Although peaceful as it seemed we could see people around the lake busy washing. We then headed to Bajrabrahi Temple. The temple is 8 kilometres from Lalitpur, it took us about another 10-15 mins from Naag daha. The temple is famous for bird watching and is a wonderful picnic spot. We saw a lot of visitors in and around the temple. The temple is surrounded by a huge forest. I noticed that the temple didnt have a gajur (pinnacle). The myth says, the priest of the temple had a nightmare the night before it was supposed to go on. He saw that whoever tries to put on gajur would die. Thus the idea of gajur was abandoned and the temple remained without.

Finally Godawari, destined place, famous for its picnic spots and the Royal Botanical Garden. Godavari is a village situated  at the foot of Phulchoki (the highest hill in the valley-2715 metres) and 14 km southeast of Kathmandu. First, we went to "Naudhara". We paid around Rs25 entry free. People were busy picnicking, it was crowded and loud. Next, Godavari Kunda where water flows from within the temple. The Godavari Kunda (Spring) was fascinating as the water flows out the courtyard and to the  lake like site where people were busy boating around. The Royal Botanical Garden attracts many local residents and visitors but unfortunately it didn't us. Well, we didn't have much time to go around. The garden is popular for plants, trees, ferns, flowers, orchids and for birds and butterflies. It is one of the beautiful places just a few kilometres away to enjoy the nature, also proven to be a great picnic spot.

By then, we were starving. As we passed through small scenic Newari town of Harisiddhi, Thaibu and Badegaon, we had to stop by. One of the locals in Badegaon served us absolute delights. Choyla, kachila, batman, bara etc, a very typical Newari khaja and the taste was amazing. Although burning hot, we absolutely loved it. It was the best bara (O). It sure beats 'Honacha', another popular place for Newari khaja in Patan.

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Shiva Temple-Shantaneshwor

Naagdaha

Bajrabarahi

Godawari

Godawari

Newari khaja

Bara 

Bajrabarahi Jungle

Temples - Squirrels

Let's take it this way, it was a pilgrimage tour. It took me a while to get out of the bed. It was the coldest morning by far. We were out by eight. Dad had to drive with the headlights on. While mom and dad went out in search of duck, aunty and I stayed warm inside. I was sleep deprived.
Our first pit, Swamyambhu. The monkeys were cheeky even in the cold foggy morning, perhaps to do with the crowd, more the people more naughty they become. Puja's done dad handed me a warm cup of tea look like  to drink. I took a sip and Yuck! Apparently, it's a good stuff. Yeap, everything good  in life has to be sour, ugly or hard to accomplish.
Second, Bijeshwori Temple. A newly wed couple were behind us, lined up for puja. They seemed to be in hurry, so did we. Win! moms didn't let them go in even with their humble request. Next was Bhatbhateni Temple where I enjoyed feeding pigeons while moms busy on puja.  Gyneshwor, the final temple for the day. Kids at the temple surrounded me when they heard  squeaking sound of duckling.  I lied and said I wasn't carrying one. Garden of dreams, the final pit for lunch and a nap.

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Swayambhu

Apparently a day off, not from work but hospital; a laid back day and didnt do anything the whole day. An evening tea on the dining table with moms ( mom & aunty) and cousin and we decided to go out. Apparently, we chose Swayambhu for its lights and glory at night. Well, Anju was ready to join us too with her unfinished work. As usual, I had to wash my face and so did my cousin.  Yeap, runs in the family. 

There was not much of a traffic on the way. If you live in Nepal or have been to Nepal, you know how troublesome it is to travel. Glad, the road took us all the way up to the hill, moms wouldnt be able to walk otherwise. At the entrance mom handed me some coins to throw in the wishing pond. The target was a medium size pot in the centre of the pond. Mom did it at once, for us was a struggle. It wasnt that easy as it looked and I wasted coins, didnt do the count though. 

Up the stairs and we found people with long lenses and tripods capturing the beautiful view of the city. Most of them were tourists I guess. I started taking photos while others were busy buying candles. One of the vendors nearby hello-ed me and showed me a gesture. Apparently, I was a tourist for her for she saw camera on my hand. Praying with candles with monkeys around was a bit tricky. I didnt want to close my eyes for long since there's a possibility of monkeys snatching whatever you have in your hand. They almost had us when my aunty stepped her foot onto one of them. They attacked in a group and in an instance.  I could do nothing but scream for I was a distance apart, with camera on my hand.  I could see one of the biggest monkeys hanging onto my mom's kurta, couple on aunty's and others running randomly from all the corners circling moms, Sagar and Anju. Glad, there were other people around, helping to get away. This didn't want us to stay for long for there were moneys everywhere and we were more cautious this time to move around. Anyway, the night was beautiful so was the place. It was a bit chilly on the top but the lights and the vibe was just as awesome. I didnt want to leave considering if there were no harmful and WWF champions 'chimpus' around.

Bhai Tika

This is the  final day and is the most important of Yamapanchak/Tihar festival. On this day, sisters pray for their  brothers' longevity and prosperity offering them various delicacies. The ritual includes offering 'makhamali' flower, walnut, ring of mustard oil and Paanch Rangi Tika which includes five colours- yellow, green, red, blue and white. According to hindu religion, Bhai-tika is performed by sisters to protect their brothers from Lord Yama, the god of death. 

 My assistant for decorating mandap was my five year old brother Abhinash (aunty's son). It was hard to get hold of him but I drove him off with the gun, not really. He helped me throughout and in return I put tika on him. He was more interested in what's on the mandap. 

When there are too many elders, you just have to follow them. You copy them, repeat whatever they do. One of  the fupus didn't turn up. Perhaps to do with her religion, I  woulnt know. We had fun.

The ritual of offering sagun, fruits and nuts and gifts continued throughout. It was sort of give and take. I could see smiles on all of them including the audience, the moms. Sisters were happy with the gifts/cheques they received  and so were brothers. Cousin Sagar did a ramp walk  covering himself top to toe with the gifts he received.

All this time, I was thinking of all of us, seven of us, lucky seven of us. We used to have so much fun, memories remain. If only going back was possible, I would to childhood days.

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Mha Puja

Mha Puja (half of the family missing

Mha Puja and Nepal Sambat are celebrated on the same day. It is a unique tradition of celebrating New Year, Nepal Samabat of Newars. It signifies an auspicious beginning of the New Year. Mha Puja meaning worshipping of the self. It celebrates the spirit within oneself. It provokes prosperity and longevity of oneself. 

Mha Puja Mandap

The ritual is usually in the evening. Half a day was spent on prep and the rest on decorating mandap. The eldest female of the family, in this case my mom played the role. We decorated mandap for all the members of the family while moms (mom & aunty) were busy in the kitchen. Different colours, grains, fruits and flowers were used for its decoration each playing a significant role. Uncle drew a mini mandap of oil within a mandap which represented the human soul. The reason it being inside is that a person shall prosper throughout the year. A person is believed to be blessed by each deity represented by fruits and grains. It is a must, one should wash his/her body before the ritual. I waited until the last minute and mom calls me 'basi khwa'. Yes, I didnt wash my face the whole day.

Enthusiasts on this day celebrates New Year with a rally called 'Nhu Daya Bhintuna' meaning Happy New Year. This day is regarded as auspicious and of religious importance.

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Road Trip Day 6 Meghauli

Meghauli, Tharu village. 

'Ghongi' -Tharu dish

On the left, my hut for the night, right for the oldies.

Tharu Lunch

UN bikes I havent seen/noticed before.

Muglin- fish and prawn.

Muglin, street vendors

Meghauli, an authentic Nepalese village in Chitwan.  It was a unique experience and very authentic. Road trip was one thing but home stay at Tharu village was a different experience. Being able to stay in a clean comfortable hut was something I didn't expect it to be fun. Although we had trouble finding the village, it was worth a visit. We were welcomed with water and 'Ghongi' snail, a traditional Tharu dish. The way you eat is similar to of bone marrow, to suck meat out of the shells is a win. It wasn't that easy. I had to use toothpick so did Prakash uncle. Dad ate like an expert. He had this planned beforehand. Ghongi is one of the delicacies of Tharu and indigenous people. This was followed by 'bhurey macha' tiny fish and then dinner. We were a bit late for their cultural program but sleeping in a hut was quite a experience. One of the Tharu women came with warm water and showed how to lock the door and windows before she vanished in the dark. I was pretty amazed how simple the hut looked inside and out and yet so comfortable.


Wake up call for wild safari elephant ride  and we were lead to the jungle. We spotted few animals and birds but not tiger. We had a great hope since we were on the other side but not in the commercial zone. We did spot it's foot steps though. Elephant ride lasted for about an hour and more and we came back to the hut for lunch- sticky rice, saag, allu and chutney. We were bidden farewell with blessings and locally picked marigold. Our stay at the village of Meghauli was an unforgettable experience that I would not have wanted to miss.

Next  stop, UN house in Chitwan to meet the oldies' friends. For an hour long chit chat, I remained invisible with a coke and pizza in my hand. I was extremely bored. They had to cover a decade long conversation. Muglin, the next for its very popular fish and prawns. Few more hours on the road and we were home by dinner time.

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Road Trip Day 5 Koshi Tapu

Another night in Biratnagar, the same hotel and I had a good night sleep. The next morning started with meet ups (oldies friends) in and around Biratnagar including their ex work place, UN house. We then headed our way back. The next pit was Koshi barrage, also known as Koshi Tapu. Koshi is the largest river of Nepal and Koshi barrage is a flood control sluice across the Koshi river, near Nepal-India border. It has 52 gates altogether and are controlled by Indian officers although it is in Nepal. Koshi Tapu Wildlife Reserve is popular for bird watching, arna -wild water buffalo (we spotted many) and fresh water dolphin. One more time, they were old time stories from the oldies on how they used to spend hours in Koshi Tapu and the fun they used to have after work. Prakash uncle was full on with his camera capturing Koshi river and the surrounds. I did too. Unfortunately, I've lost them all (syncing problem) but here's couple of videos on stop by-s.
1:Banana bargain at Bhatabari, apparently famous for banana.
2: Fish farming next to the highway. I forgot the name of the place but it was pretty warm, couldn't stay out much longer.

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Road Trip Day 4 Suketar

We woke up early in the morning since we had a long way to come back. I didnt realise we had the view until I came out of the room and saw this morning misty mountains. It was beautiful. We carried onto our journey after morning breakfast. Dad insisted on Nepali (free range) egg. It was quite a different taste, perhaps to do with the cold weather.

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Morning view at Suketar, behind our accomodation.

This is where we spent our two nights. We had to crawl up the stairs.

The nearest town we headed to was Taplejung. It must be an hour trek if you walk down the road and 10-15 minutes if you drive. Taplejung occupies an area ranging from 670 meters to 8586 meters (Mt Kangchenjunga) above sea level. Kumbhakarna is an outlier of Kangchenjunga. Lucky that we get to see the range from the road because of its clear weather condition. It looked like a sleeping giant with a big nose and therefore the name, Kumbhakarna which makes it easy to remember I think.

Kumbhakarna Range 

As we continued our trip, we passed through small villages. Old wooden houses and narrow streets with colourful flowers in their balconies, they all looked beautiful. Since the oldies are into gardening, we succeed in collecting as many as we could fit into the hatchback. The credit goes to my dad for his great communication skills. We dropped in many places and was pretty amazed with Eastern culture of giving it for free. Handing them stuff we had, apparently pre-packed food didn't leave us that shameful.

Oldies busy secure the plants.

Sun set from tea garden.

Immediately after we were off the hills was Terai plain. However, tea Ilam tea didnt leave us and continued through the plain. We were lucky to see the sun go down from one of the tea gardens.